Thursday

Free wi-fi at Amman airport is an unexpected bonus. We’ve said our goodbyes, gone through bag drop and security very quickly, and spent our last few dinars on sesame biscuits and some Jordanian wine to share over Easter. Despite looking emptier, my bag actually weighed in at 21kg – heavier than on the way out, largely because of all the cooking ingredients we’ve been given by both Hanan and Barween today – sumac, Nigella seeds, a type of cracked wheat called freek, okra, camomile for tea and zatar. I can feel an IWG session on Jordanian cooking coming on!
Another lovely day, feeling very much at home with Hanan – we’ll miss them all! We breakfasted with Barween, who had laid on a real spread for us. Some traditional tahini-based dips to go with flatbread, which we hadn’t tried before – one with ground Nigella seeds and one with date syrup, as well as a delicious omelette with lots of tomatoes and parsley. We spent the rest of the morning with Hanan, ostensibly helping her prepare pastries for lunch, but mostly watching.
Lunch was, as always delicious – pastries filled variously with spinach, cheese and thyme, chicken and sumac and home made ‘sausage rolls’, with salad. Hanan had made enough to feed a small army and we scored a selection each to eat on our way home. We left their flat about 5.30pm and were at the airport a little over an hour later. Having done our shopping, all that remains is to hope that this flight leaves on time!

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